We left Kyoto early and took the JR train to Himeji, the largest feudal castle in Japan.

Walking straight down the road from the station, you can see it above the city.

The fort the castle is in was built in the 1300s, but the castle itself was built in the 16th century. The masters of this castle were lesser rulers, not even shoguns or emperors. Regardless, they commanded an amazing view. Just in case anyone tried to attack, every wall in the castle was lined with weapons, and samurai had plenty of hiding places.

And just in case a master was killed, the samurai had a place to commit Harakiri or Seppuku (ritual suicide). Apparently, samurai would kneel on the rock in the center of the courtyard, and they'd be cleaned up over the well (the fenced in area to the right in the photo).

After Himeji we went back to Kyoto where we had plenty more to see. Our first stop was Nijo castle.

It was built in 1603 and was the Kyoto residence of the first Tokugawa Shogun, Ieyasu. One of the most interesting parts inside was the Nightingale flooring. Anywhere you stepped, the floor would squeak, and this would make it impossible for anyone to sneak around, especially intruders.

The outside wasn't as grand as Himeji, but the inside was exactly what you'd image in a Japanese castle. Unfortunately, no pictures were allowed. Below is a photo of the inner moat.

From Nijo we took a bus north to Rokuon-ji Temple, better known as the Golden Pavilion. It's a very popular tourist stop, and we're sure you can see why. It was burned down once by an over zealous monk but was reconstructed to be better than the first.

This would be an incredibly peaceful place (you practically stroll through the woods while walking around it) if it weren't for all the tourist buses. We still stopped with everyone else along the path to throw spare change at a bowl for luck. (We missed).

After the Golden Pavilion it was back to Gion where lots of folks were enjoying dinner by the river.

We walked down the street to the Gion-Higashiyama intersection to take in the shrines and gates lit up at night.

And from the other side, looking at the main road.

We ended our night watching locals throw change into the shrine's box, ring the bell, clap twice and say a prayer for a good night.

Himeji & Kyoto Gallery

There was a ceremony going on, so we didn't stay long. Instead we wandered up a narrow road where we found a cemetery.

It was beautiful and extended up and down a hill, and almost every grave stone had a small green incense jar. Down the road, we caught some monks trying to cross the street.

From there we continued down Higashiyama and found a five-tiered pagoda up another alley.

The alley led up to a cobblestone street where we saw, among other things, a rickshaw.

And we found our way to Kiyomizu-dera (a temple up on the mountainside).

We went into Tainai-meguri, a pretty strange experience. Apparently, walking down the stairs into the pitch blackness and following the rope through a hallway represents entrance into the womb of Daizuigu Bosatsu, a Bodhisattva who can grant wishes. We reached a small patch of light above a stone, which we spun around and made wishes before ascending the stairs.

We made our way to the main hall that has a veranda that sits a long way above the hillside. While we were up there, a thunderstorm rolled in over Kyoto, and the view couldn't have been better.

When the rain subsided, we started the walk down and found a shinto monk still waiting in the drizzle.

We were soaked and waited the rest of the afternoon out in Gion. That night, we walked around this Geisha district, starting on Hanami-koji, where taxis lined the street waiting for businessmen leaving the restaurants and teahouses, and a hostess waited outside her establishment.

We walked around to the Shinbashi district, a really peaceful area around more teahouses.

We found the Tatsumi shrine, which is supposed to bring luck to entertainers, in the fork in the road.

We then walked toward Pontocho, an upscale club/restaurant area and toward Kiyamachi-dori, a less expensive place to hang out. We stopped to take a picture of the statue of the first geisha.

And that's when we spotted a real one.

Kyoto Gallery

I still walked for another hour, I think, the thoughts were quite blurry when I walked out of the park (Maruyama-koen), and found traditional houses, ochaya (tea houses), and several little shops. Unlike Tokyo where houses and building were all westernized/modernized, this neigborhood of Higashiyama still maintained its roots.
Here and there I found statue of tanuki in front of houses (I wonder what message would this creature bring to welcome the guests?)

I walked again in the hilly areas with narrow roads, almost no cars, and less people on sidewalks. As I did several times, I asked again with one lady who seemed to be friendly, which way I should go if I wanted to go to Heian-jingu (already started to think, did it really worth to go to Heian-jingu? with wet clothes and backpacks and souvenirs that began to weigh like 100 kilograms?)

They kept telling me to look for the big torii (shrine), which I would obviously see right away (and how did I get the power to translate that far? This time I do think God works in mysterious ways). But still no red torii for me to see.

I got out of the hilly traditional neighborhood and appeared on the urban and more modern neighborhood, with traffic lights on road intersections and all. And there in the faraway I saw a tiny (but huge, in real) red torii. Oh yay!!

So I walked towards the torii. Along the way, some more shops stalled my way. The one that I stopped quite for some time carried a classy collections of sport shoes decorated with sakura patterns. Some tshirts with original designs, canvas bags, printed with the head of a girl with flowers from 3D kimono scraps, and so many cute dolls, hair berrets in floral patterns, and many many souvenirs. I tought I'm gonna buy the whole store! (again, couldn't get a hold of myself... he he)

The girl that attended the store was really cheerful and friendly. When I forgot my umbrella in the store (which forced me to go back, when it suddenly pouring again when I almost reached the torii), then I asked her if she would want to keep my heavy backpack and souvenir there while I went to Heian-jingu and the museum of modern art (conveniently on the way). She agreed, and would keep all my things in the staff room, asking me how long I'd be. I said one hour (-ish).

I wonder why I was so trusting with her, but the way she attended me and the other customers of the shop somehow told me she was a good person (and in Japan, people don't steal, well at least AFAIK). So I let her keep my backpack containing my brand new USD 2,000 laptop and others. Whatever.. the backpack almost caused me permanent neck pain.

I walked, a lot lighter with only my sling bag containing camera, wallet, passport and a bottle of water. I took the time of having lunch while waiting for the rain to quiet down before, when I forgot to bring my umbrella in the store. And now I am happily skipping to the National Museum of Modern Art.

Could be my lucky day (still think that after the rainy walks in Maruyama-koen :P) , there was a Renoir special exhibition with collection from Le Musée d'Orsay, Paris, France. Wuoh... I went to the ticket booth and bought both regular collection and the special exhibition. 

Pierre-Auguste Renoir (February 25, 1841–December 3, 1919) was a French artist who was a leading painter in the development of the Impressionist style. As a celebrator of beauty, and especially feminine sensuality, it has been said that "Renoir is the final representative of a tradition which runs directly from Rubens to Watteau".

From Wikipedia Renoir

There were quite a line to this exhibition. I guess rain don't stop the art spectators of Kyoto from attending this special exhibition. I don't know that much about Renoir, only that he is an impressionist artist, in the same era as Monet. But I recognize some of the works, from walking through the halls where the paintings were hanging. 

The exhibition was in 4th floor, and we directed to the elevator. In the entrance of the exhibition hall, they provide audio cassette with narration of the artworks displayed. Too bad no English. Moreover, then I am stuck with French titles and kanji translation, so might as well just enjoy it :)

The Japanese people were very orderly. I never see anyone cut any line since the first time I'm arrived. And now, in the packed hall of museum, noone produced any noises, and no pushing or cutting into each other's line like we often experience in one particular country in south-east Asia (that I dearly miss right now).

The exhibition includes several famous works :

Dance at Le Moulin de la Galette (Le Bal au Moulin de la Galette), 1876, Pierre-Auguste Renoir and 

The Swing (La Balançoire), 1876, oil on canvas 

From Wikipedia

After finishing Renoir, and caught in a moment without canceling the thought of buying a Renoir book in Japanese, I took the stairs to the second floor of the regular collection. Seeing one Picasso (forgot the title), and some of the famous works, Japanese artist's work like the room-separation painted in a pool of koi fish (sorry no photography permitted).

There were also some 3D works like pottery and really awesome kimono (an emperor's ? he he). Somehow I felt uneasy of leaving my backpack with a stranger, then I cut the visit short, and head to the first floor where they have all the souvenirs of the museum. Bought several postcards of Renoir as a memento that I was here, and some mini-clear folders to keep the bills and receipts tidy.

Then I go on towards Heian Jingu, the destination that so hard to reach (seems like). I'll give you some pictures of the Shinto temple :

Another walk towards the red Torii and then went to the shop. My bag was safely sound, and the girl greeted me, making me felt slightly guilty for having bad thoughts about her. I asked her for the last time (since it's difficult to find a person who can speak english), how to catch a bus to Kyoto-eki. And she told me, it was just right across the street. 

I waited for a while, not long the bus came (no getting lost this time - I'm too tired anyway), and then got there (I don't know how I managed with the already full backpack - some of the souvenirs I moved there to avoid the rain) and still one plastic bag of another group of souvenirs.

After reaching Kyoto station, I had to take the subway to the station nearby the hotel, which is Marutamachi-bashi. Now, the challenge is how to get to the right subway platform. In the basement there was a department store, and everywhere I turned there were only shops, and no signs to subway. Hopeless, and the backpack is killing my neck once again, asking around, finally I got to the subway. Phew...

My friend already text-messaged me since I was still at Heian-jingu, so that meant that I was expected. I got into the subway, got off at Marutamachi-bashi, but wrong exit. (hehe, not remembering the experience of Takebashi.... duhhh) and then ask a really old lady where is the Gosho (imperial palace),  because I just know the hotel is right across the imperial palace park. She pointed out the place. 

I got a bit disoriented, and then found the kaban that I went to first thing in the morning before getting to the bus stop. Ah there must be the hotel. 

Finally I arrived at the hotel, dashed to the toilet to freshen up (if there is any difference that can be made, my clothes was dry, rained on, and dry again), claimed my luggage, and dragged the luggage to front porch of the hotel.

There I finished one carton of Glico strawberry milk (starving), and one onigiri. Then rearrange the souvenirs into my backpack and one travelling back and one huge plastic bag. Then I wonder still now, how I managed with all these stuff to Marutomachi-bashi subway station and then back to Kyoto-eki. 

I had a plan. I will drop the things at Kyoto-eki, in coin locker, and then I will go to Nara only with necessary stuff. Seemed that what I left behind at Tokyo still not enough, or I guess it was just my shopping mood that resulted into many additional baggage. But finally I got a coin locker, put 400 yen there and put most of my things there in one huge plastic bag.

Ah. Life is suddenly good again. Well, prolly not just yet! Gotta catch the train to Takanohara (station in Nara where my friend will pick me up). Uh oh. Gotta run.

Good morning, Kyoto!

Weather isn't the perfect for my tight schedule of visiting Gion, make walking tour through the Higashiyama trail as recommended by LP and then catch the train to Nara as promised as my hotel was booked at NAIST for tonight.

So I packed up all my things (which constantly grow into bigger pile in a much fatter travelling bag). I checked out and left my luggages in the front desk, which gave me a token to get it back. The receptionist guy was very helpful and offer about a one-day ticket for Kyoto bus (subway doesn't cover as much as Tokyo), and I bought it since it's only 500 yen. I only had yesterday's experience riding the bus to Kinkaku-ji with my friend, it took sometime before really adjusting).

From there I walk to the nearest bus station, conveniently passing a kaban (police station), and then I waited for sometime, first kinda forgot which number of the bus I should take (take notes!) then after the bus passed, I quickly remembered, it was that bus ! Heh.  Another wait then I took another bus and then it was wrong, so I dropped out on the next stop, and run back to the first bus stop because the right bus was appearing. Aduh, imagine the hectic plus it was raining (small, but still, an umbrella can add up into the chaos).

I got a seat next to an elderly lady, who, of course, can't speak English. But having been in Japan for several days now, I now understand it's better ask or you'd be left deserted in some unknown territory. So I asked her. She blurted out some explanations, and when my stop was nearing, i assumed she told me ask to the kaban for the maiko place (Yumekoubou), and pat me in the hand (blurted out some fast Japanese) and hurry me to the bus door. Arigatou obaasan!

Thanks to the lady, I arrived in Gion district.

Gion (祇園) is a district of Kyoto, Japan, originally developed in the Middle Ages, in front of Yasaka Shrine. The district was built to accommodate the needs of travelers and visitors to the shrine. It eventually evolved to become one of the most exclusive and well-known geisha districts in all of Japan.

The geisha in the Gion district do not refer to themselves as geisha; instead, Gion geisha use the local term geiko. While the term geisha means "artist", the more direct term geiko means specifically "a woman of art."

For sure I dropped of in the kaban (asking directions have never been an issue with me, I'd rather talk to some strangers than die not knowing where I am). The good thing about the policemen here are, they are very polite, they are nice even to strangers (i.e. don't run away) and they speak OK English (at least the young officers do). 

So I got to the maiko makeover safely. It was in the 4th floor of an business building. I saw some shop selling traditional food (swear don't know what they are!) on the way. But then I went to get in because my appointment time is almost on. The makeover place was rather small, with one studio, one waiting room, one rather big preparation room, where there are lockers to put your clothes when you are stripped into an undergarment for kimono, and three sets of make up chairs equipped with mirrors, and a wardrobe full of colorful kimonos.

So I got into the white undergarment and wear the tabi sock (sock with thumb separated from the rest of the toes he he) and sit on the chair. The amazing thing is, none of this people speak good English, so it's crazy. I guess the make up artist memorize some of the lines like "This is  foundation", "Now lipstick.." and some similar steps needed to be done to the customer. But, other than that, zip. However she is very nice and I was sort of on the state of "I'm gonna do it whatever it takes".

Metamorphose 

                                                          HENSHIN !!!

The whole process of making over took about 1 hour, and the photography session is probably 20 minutes. Then, the whole make up was torn down in about 10 mins. He he. And all of the sudden I was 10,000 yen poorer.

Can't say that I'm totally satisfied with the whole thing ( especially because they canceled the photograph session outside in the streets of Gion because of the constant rain). I guess I just have to come back (why do I keep saying this ?)

After that, my journey was a bit at ease. The rain still went on, but I got my 1,000 yen umbrella (from Fujisawa), and I got my shopping mood on. Kyoto turned out to be a lot more artsy craftsy than Tokyo (or was I looking in all the wrong places?), but true, I got most of my souvenirs from yesterday's trip to Kinkaku-ji. Last night I got some counting of the souvenirs that we have to bring (in Indonesia we have the tradition to bring back something from the place that you visit). So I was visit the little shops along the street of Shijō-dori, had a lot of fun, and bought some souvenirs.

They aren't that expensive (I managed to stop converting from Yen to Rupiah to save myself from heart attack), and they are all so full of arts... traditional sakura, rabbits, or dragon flies print fabrics was made into purses, lady wallets, cellphone straps and scarf. I almost bought everything.

There was one really lovely store called Chiri-men, highly recommended. The prices weren't all that cheap (even in Japanese standard), but they have i-will-kill-to-have cute earrings made of kimono fabrics, and hina dolls, and i-wonder-why-there-are-people-who-are-dilligent-enough-to-make tiny fabric vegetables and mini woven basket, and sushi and tiny sized bento for the sushi. I almost fainted! 

Managed to buy only 4 vegetables (they're to kawaii not to have), several pairs of earrings for my family and myself (spent so much today!). And run away...

Still on the same Shijō-dori, there was a store that sold everything green tea. Hubby is a big fan of greentea, in fact the only thing he wanted from my trip as oleh-oleh was only this. So I went there, there were so many kinds of tea to pick from (but no english speaking waiter to help me), so i picked one can of green tea and one sakura tea (because it sounds so sweet), and two packs of green-tea astor-like biscuits which there were testers, so I could taste it (and it tasted great..)

Before I went out the shop, couldn't help not to pick one cone of this smooth macha ice cream with green-tea biscuit. Taste was not sweet, it was really authentic green tea (yeah as if i know), unlike the macha milkshake I used to have in Japaneser resto back in Bandung.

After that I went to a couple of shop that sells maiko and geisha accessories, wow really expensive. The hair accessories like pin on the hair can cost aout 15,000 yen. OMG! Then I bought a bag of kimono scraps for my craft project (if I ever got a chance), a summer fan decorated in red flowers, and a tabi (not knowing that for the yukata that I bought at Kinkaku-ji, we don't need to wear socks).

I also went to a kimono shop, that the owner was really nice, and she helped picked out one male yukata (on sale), for hubby, navy color with minimalist pattern. 1,500 yen from 3,500 yen was quite a bargain! So I got it, and she showed me how to tie an obi.

From there, while rain is still pouring, I got myself a lunch at Lawson, a very familiar combini (convenience store), and ran in the rain towards the red gate. The lady in the photo shop right across this gate said that to go to Heian Jingu (my next destination), I would have to go through Maruyama-koen (park). Since I was reading this walking trail of Southern Higashiyama, I chose to walk (though I remembered in vain when the rain became really hard, that the lady actually asked if I would want to take the bus or walk).

Anyway, I am most proud of my physical strength :D that day, carrying my backpack, my little sling purse, and a huge bag filled with souvenir, a result of a little uncontrollable shopping earlier.

Because it was raining, and my hands were full with things, it's very difficult to snap a decent photo. Some of the photos I took either not including me, show a silvery blurry image of rain, or shaky.

I still walked and walked... would I ever find Heian-jingu?? The souvenir bag was already dangerously soaked wet, and so were the gray pants that I was wearing ... (to be continued)

Paul had found a good walk around the Higashiyama area of Kyoto recommended in our Lonely Planet guidebook.  The route started at Kiyomizudera, a temple (temples are Buddhist, shrines are Shinto) first built in 798 and then reconstructed in 1633.  Behind a towering pagoda framed by cherry blossom trees, looking every bit the cliché image of Japan, the main temple's massive wooden pillars were about six stories high, supporting its massive expanse as it nestled against a steep hillside.

We made several offerings at the temple, bought omamori, offered incense and wrote on a votive plaque which we left hanging at the temple.  We chose a design of two white mice pushing a boat along to somewhere or other (Adelaide, perhaps?) laden with  a magical lucky hammer.  Quite appropriate, we felt.

We clambered up some steps to Jishu Jinja on the temple grounds, illustrating the comfort with which the ancient, pantheistic Shinto religion sits alongisde Buddhism.  Most people in Japan practice both, though families are usually one over the other – my mother's family is Soto Zen Buddhist. but has shinto altars in its shop to ask for good fortune for its business.  Jishu Jinja at Kiyomizudera is a Shinto shrine dedicated to the god of successful relationships.  We went up and gave incense, paid our respects and asked for strength and longevity in ours.  Two sacred stones stood 18 metres apart on the grounds of the shrine.  For those not in a relationship, it's said that if you can walk from one stone to the other without opening your eyes, your desire for love will be fulfilled.

The sun was out.  At risk of repeating myself, the cherry blossom was just breathtakingly beautiful, and it was absolutely everywhere.  We were out with throngs of other visitors all enjoying the sight of this awe-inspiring temple surrounded by clouds of pale pink blossom – this had to be the peak cherry blossom viewing weekend for Kyoto.

Along with large numbers of hayfever and cold-suffering Japanese, I decided to wear a mask.  This did the double duty of allowing guilt-free coughing and hacking without the burden of responsibility for spreading my germs everywhere, and for keeping my throat moist and preventing dust from entering and causing coughing fits – especially at dusty Fawlty Towers.

I'd had a rough night, having coughed myself (and sometimes Paul) awake every hour – so we gave ourselves a matcha (green tea) pick-me-up.  A bowl of frothy bitter tea made with powdered leaves, accompanied with an ohagi – a pounded rice cake coated in red bean paste – gave us the energy boost we needed and we continued on.

We left the temple and walked down some narrow, quaint streets lined with old fashioned tea houses, food shops and old wooden houses; one, Ishibei-koji, is said to be one of the most beautiful streets in Kyoto, cobbled and lined with historic houses and restaurants.  We passed through Maruyama-koen, where everyone and her cat were out enjoying the blossom with their obento picnics and sake.  In the centre of the park we admired the most famous cherry tree in all of Kyoto, the shidarezakura.  Its gnarled, thick, twisted trunk made it look at least 100 years old.

The park was dotted with busy yatai – food stalls – one of which was selling fresh charcoal roasted bamboo shoots on a stick (the great Kyoto spring delicacy, as you'll have seen in my previous posting).  A healthy kebab, if you like, which Paul and I shared there and then.

We continued along the route past several other beautiful buildings and temples, including the stunning Chion-in with its vast gate.

We'd booked lunch at the handmade noodle shop we'd discovered the night before.  Nakajima san had reserved a private room for us  at his restaurant, Uichiro.  The sunlight filtered into the miniature garden facing our little tatami mat room, making for a calm, relaxing atmosphere.

We sat on the cushions at our low table and shared a fresh, crisp mooli salad with spring leaves and a Japanese dressing.

Our tempura soba arrived swiftly after that– Paul's was cold, with a dipping sauce, mine hot, with the hegi noodles sitting in the soup.  Nakajima san told us that eating the noodles cold allowed their fragrance to be enjoyed at their best, but for those that enjoyed the broth (like me), hot was better.

We were then brought the hot water the noodles had been cooked with – which is usually added to the dipping sauce that comes with the zaru soba (cold noodles) so you can drink it warm at the end like a soup.  In normal noodle shops, it's not always brought to you, but you can ask for soba yu, and they will gladly bring you some.  Nakajima san told us that it was very good for the consitution and could be drunk just on its own.  So I did (as I'd had the hot soba).  We asked to share a kinako (roasted soya flour, with a nutty, caramel-like flavour) ice cream topped with molasses syrup but Nakajima san insisted on bringing us an extra one on the house.  It was absolutely dreamy.

We'd like to thank Nakajima san for his wonderful hospitality and food; we enjoyed eating at Uichiro enormously and hope to be back there again to enjoy another season's worth of food there.  Here we are, with Nakajima san himself.

We went to a little internet cafe recommended by the friendly waiter, who went there to read manga books and lie on a massage bed for his afternoon break until evening service.  Paul was flabbergasted by the sheer variety and volume of comics and browsed while I went online for  a while.

Walking back to Fawlty Towers, we passed street after attractive blossom-lined street, stopping at a traditional senbe shop to take some snaps.  Senbe are my favourite Japanese snacks.  Made of rice, you can get a whole range of shapes, sizes and textures, mostly flavoured with a base of soya sauce, but with top flavourings of anything from sesame, sour plum, chili spices, crystal sugar; the varieties available are endless and change from region to region.

I didn't buy any though.  We needed to save space in our stomachs for the fabulous food experience that lay ahead.  We were going to Okumura's, a French-influenced Japanese Kaiseki restaurant in the heart of the Gion entertainment district of Kyoto.

A brief return to Fawlty Towers to get dressed for the occasion couldn't dampen our excitement about this much anticipated meal.  And again, this meal was so great an experience that it is going to get its own posting... one of the best meals I've ever eaten.  Paul says “It's definitely one of the top three meals I've had in my life, and it's set a ridiculously high benchmark for all Japanese food I'm going to be eating from now on”

Sybil's breakfast wasn't going to get much of a look-in on the Arguile gourmet ranking the next morning then.

La maiko Miyofuku, durante la Jinrikishas (Rickshaw Procession).

Le maiko Miyofuku e Toshiteru, si esibiscono sul palco: è il Hanabutai (Flower Stage).

Powered by Dave Lumenta.

...La dolcezza di Toshiteru e l'eleganza di Miyofuku accarezzano l'anima. E anche MASA sembra esserne stato ammaliato...

Powered by MASA's PHOTOS.

Il Lanterns Festival si celebra, a Kyoto, solo dal 2003: lo scopo è quello di promuovere il turismo in questo specifico mese. Duemilaquattrocento lanterne di sei tipi differenti si sono materializzate in Higashiyama, da Sanjo a Gojo, e splendide decorazioni floreali profumano il parco Maruyama-koen.

Shidare Zakura al Maruyama Park, fotografato da Dave Lumenta.

I templi e i santuari della zona illuminano i propri edifici e i maestosi alberi. In questi spettacolari dieci giorni si possono ammirare tanti eventi culturali differenti!

Le maiko dei cinque hanamachi, ad esempio, sfileranno a turno in una sorta di processione nella Jinrikishas (Rickshaw Procession): il 14, il 15, il 16, il 20 e il 22 marzo.

La maiko di Kamishichiken Ichiteru, durante la Rickshaw Procession fotografata da Dave Lumenta.

La maiko di Kamishichiken Naokazu, durante la Rickshaw Procession fotografata da Dave Lumenta.

Le artiste inviteranno i visitatori alla loro performance, partendo dal Gion Corner e arrivando fino al parco del Kodai-ji koen, attraverso la via Shijo-dori, il giardino Maruyama koen e la strada Nene-no-michi. Quindi le due fortunate maiko si esibiranno sul palco: è il Hanabutai (Flower Stage).

Le maiko di Kamishichiken Naokazu e Ichiteru, mentre si esibiscono in un Kyomai per l'Hanabutai, fotografate da Dave Lumenta (20 marzo 2008).

Hanatōro 2007.

Hanatōro 2008.